Founded in 789, Fès holds the oldest continually inhabited medina in the world. It is denser, quieter and more mysterious than Marrakech, and it asks more of the traveller — but rewards them more too. A good guide isn't optional; it's what turns a maze into a story.
What Fès does best
Madrasas — Bou Inania and Attarine are among the finest zellige and stucco works anywhere in the Islamic world. The Al Quaraouiyine complex holds one of the oldest universities on earth.
Craft is still alive here: brass, leather, dyeing, weaving, ceramics. We arrange visits to the workshops the guidebooks miss.
Practical notes
Two to three nights is enough for most travellers; four if you have a strong interest in craft or Islamic architecture.
The tanneries are best seen from a private terrace with a bit of mint under the nose. We book a spot in advance so you're not being escorted into a leather shop.